• Explaining Graphics and Multi GPU Solutions
• Raid Hard Drive Options
• Location
• Care and Maintenance

Explaining RAID hard drive options.

  RAID stands for Redundant Array of Independent Disks. When describing a RAID it is always followed by a number, ex: RAID 0 or RAID 1, there are designations from RAID 0 through RAID 6 and other combinations such as RAID 1+0 or RAID 10 for short.

  A RAID 0 is also known as a striped array, that means basically all your data is read at twice the speed from two hard drives at the same time thus speeding up the read time of programs or information stored on your drives. The data is not complete on either drive rather it is stored in fragmented bits known as stripped bits. The frequency of failure increases by the number of drives in the array, two drives are twice as likely to fail as a single drive, the same for three drives, three times as likely and so on. Also stripped arrays do not have error checking so if you have an error, your stuck with it. The down side is that if you loose a hard drive the whole array is unreadable, you will have to replace the defective drive and start over with a fresh image of your operating system. You've lost all your data.

  In a Raid 1 also known as a mirroring array, you don't get to read your data twice as fast although there is a speed increase over a single drive. If you loose a drive just plug in a new one and the software will automatically rebuild the array.   By the way I forgot to mention your computer will think of either of these arrays as one drive so don't go looking for the second drive in your operating system.  The one I'm recommending is the mirror RAID 1. I have never been in such a hurry that I couldn't wait just a few seconds for the data I need to load.  Lets not forget the new drives today are just reading faster anyway, unless your just an absolute speed junky, I would go with the reliability of RAID 1.

  A Raid 10 is the best of both worlds, you have a stripped array that is mirrored. the biggest drawback is the number of hard drive required is twice what you can use, (the same goes for RAID 1) example: four hard drives minimum but only two are actually used in the array, the other two drives are a mirror copy for backup.

  When we talk about the failure rate of RAID configurations we have only thus far talked about the probability of the Hard Drives failing. There is another factor to consider, the RAID controller. The failure rate increases with the type of RAID controller you are using. RAID controllers can be of two types, Software based (built into the motherboard) and Hardware based (an actual add in card). If your going to do a RAID configuration you need to decide for yourself what is important to you. Software based RAID controllers have a much higher rate of failure than Hardware based controllers, but if your going to buy a RAID controller card, don't just buy the cheapest thing out there, instead consider the risks and buy a quality controller. If the risks are too high such as all the family photos are on your drive and they have not been backed up for some unknown reason, then consider an external hard drive. The safest way by far to back up your entire system.

Important factors to consider when placing your computer in your workspace. You may know most of the things listed on this page but we believe it is important enough to cover. If you are a beginner this page will help you get more out of your computer and understand some important concepts that can save you headaches down the road.

Be careful not to block or enclose a computer. A good computer design does not end with the computer, it will ultimately end with you the consumer. There are many other factors to consider, let's examine some of them:

1. That enclosed cabinet on our new desk may look great, but its really hard on a computer. AIr flow is key to keeping your computer cool and performing at top efficiency.
2. Do Not place in a cluttered environment surrounded with books and magazines, again your computer must breathe.
3. Do Not place your computer in a water hazard area!
   ex:
   1. Next to a swimming pool
   2. In a kitchen, bath or next to a sink or wash basin
   3. In close proximity to a hot tub
   4. In a humid environment such as a green house or sauna
4. Never Place your computer where it will be exposed to the Sun.
5. Never place your computer in a hot environment, if ambient (room temperature) is too high it could cause a component in your computer to reach or exceed a threshold temperature. If the room is hotter than normal then the case temperature will also be that much hotter.
6. Try to limit the computers exposure to dust and dusty environments, in a dusty environment you will have to clean it more often.

Cleaning and Care for the Outside of Your Computer

   To clean the tower use only 100% cotton cloth. Wet the cloth and wring it out dry, you only want it too feel slightly damp. The idea is to grab the dust not to wet the case. very light contact will prevent most visible micro scratches. Roll the cloth into a roll shape, starting at the back gently roll the cloth upward as you travel down the case. This will provide a lifting effect and not rub the dirt into your finish. Rinse the cloth and repeat as necessary.  If you can't wring it out dry for what ever reason use a dry cotton bath towel and use the same rolling procedure as above

   Cleaning of the clear plastic side panels can be cleaned the same way as above, however they will show micro scratches a lot easier because they are made of plastic.  The best way to preserve the look of these is not to ever touch them.

Use Isopropyl alcohol to clean oils off the keys on a keyboard, dampen the edge of a cloth and lightly wipe the grease away. I like my old camera lens brush for cleaning between the keys, but the easiest way to keep it looking nice is to cover your keyboard when not in use.

To clean a monitor it is best to follow the manufacturers advice, however there are some things that we can discuss to prevent damage to your monitor. Never touch an LCD screen, I have a friend who has a real bad habit of touching my screen and I have to constantly remind him about it. This can be annoying, and just when I think he understands I had to explain ... yep you guessed it! "don't squash bugs on it either".  No matter how careful you are there will always be a reason to eventually have to clean the screen.  A few things that will help you: I use a micro fiber cloth designed for LCD screens, gently wipe the screen using minimal pressure, and never continue rubbing in the same spot, you will damage the screen. They make a special cleaner for LCD screens as well, but because of the possibility of a change in manufacturing materials, let your manufacturer tell you how to clean it.

Cleaning an SLI System

  Cleaning of this kind of computer should only be done by qualified people. The components are delicate and tightly assembled. In most cases a simple cleaning (removing the cover and blowing out the dust) will be sufficient, however if it's really dirty and in need of a thorough cleaning, have a professional do it. If you have a local computer repair shop that you trust that's fine. Please don't jump right in if you've never done anything like this before.
Here are some tips for the more experienced. Be sure to plug in the computer before you start, but if the computer has a power switch, turn it off (we only need the ground). Survey your work area keeping in mind static electricity destroys electronic components. Carpet and wooly sweaters should be avoided.  A hard surface such as a kitchen counter or a heavy dinning room table often make great work spaces, just be sure you are not crowded and are able to work at a comfortable height. Now let's begin, you should have a static wrist band, if you don't, buy one before you proceed, in a emergency you can eliminate the potential voltage by touching the metal frame of the case. This however is problematic since you need both hands to do the work before you, therefore it is not recommended.  To begin remove the side cover by removing the two thumb screws on the back of the computer and slide back the cover, then lift it off the main case.  Secure your wrist strap.  Do a visual observation, make a note of how the cords are arranged, each power plug on the graphic cards has it's correct home, In the example on the left the blue plug is on the left and the orange is on the right, also you can't hardly see it in this image but each row is tagged, starting with the top (A,B,C,) also the cards are also tagged A,B,C and should be returned to their appropriate slot when done. Each graphic card must be cleaned individually. To begin removing the cards you will need to lay the case on it's back and stand directly in front of it, pull strait up to remove the SLI bridge and then use a small phillips screwdriver to unscrew the screw holding the card on the left side, be careful not to drop the screw into your computer.  If you do drop a screw into the case, do not go after it, direct contact with needle nose pliers, tweezers or your fingers could result in permanent damage to the motherboard or other electronic component, rather turn the case upside down slowly tilting back and forth and let it fall from the case.  Now look down at the motherboard, on the top side of the PCI-e slot on the right side. You will see a locking mechanism on the slot, use your finger to press on the lock and release the card. Gently pull upward using one hand on the metal bracket on the left and the other putting pressure on the release while pulling up on the plastic case of the card. Be careful not to touch the electronic components on the back of the card, nor any of the plugs. Clean the card with compressed air, you can buy this at any office supply store. Hold the can upright and never get closer than 12 inches to the card, do not spray if liquid is discharging from can. Follow the manufacturers recommendations on this.  It may be necessary to use a Q-tip on the fan blades of the graphic cards.  To do this keep in mind very light pressure, you may want to shape the Q-tip to fit the space between the blades.  Blow the excess dust away and proceed slowly, repeating your steps until all dust has been cleared.  Do not use the Q-tip on the electronic components.  After removing all cards and thoroughly cleaning them, inspect the motherboard and all the plugs to make sure no dust has been lodged into them.  Use the same procedure for cleaning with the compressed air to clean the case fans, power supply, hard drives and disk drives.  After thoroughly cleaning the inside of the case and all cards begin to reassemble your computer, reverse the procedure for taking them out but this time replace the cards starting with the bottom card first.  Place the bottom card back into it's slot.  Plug the appropriate cords into the power slots and place the mounting screw but do not completely tighten yet.  Repeat this step until all the cards have been reinstalled.  After the cards are back in their slots replace the SLI bridge and then tighten the mounting screws. Don't forget to clean the cover before replacing it.  Cabling is also important to keep a computer running cooler, the new large power supplies have lots of cords. In the image to the left you will see a massive group of cords coming out of the power supply, if they were not organized the way they are, they would be a giant spaghetti mess that would restrict air flow.   Again remember This is a highly sensitive, tightly built computer, have an expert clean your computer or become an expert.